The "Push" is on at Empellon Mexican Restaurant

If looking for some different, some fabulous New York City restaurant to celebrate Cinco de Mayo -- the day when Mexican soldiers defeated Napoleon’s French forces, then look no further.  Celebrated Iron Chef Alex Stupak’s new Mexican restaurant Empellon restaurant sticks it the eye of the French yet again.  Here, Chef Alex shows traditional French haute cuisine to the door.

Empellon is surely the place to celebrate Mexican culinary culture. It’s a place to eat – to dine – to enjoy real food; the cultural cuisine of elegant Mexico vs. the tasteless ubiquitous, margarita and cheese-bombed Kraft-inspired version of what passes for Mexican. http://empellon.com/

Empellon – which means push – is different. 

Likewise, Chef Alex is an inveterate contrarian.

The result is that customers are pushed or rather gently seduced with a come-hither menu that lures the diner to experiment. 

Flavors and tastes are more often than not unfamiliar, defying food description.  “It’s smoky, it’s spicy.  It's hot. It’s a combination of sweet and refreshingly citrusy. Or roasted.” Or just “mmmm.” Or “wow.” 

The delightful joy of eating at Empellon is discovery.  Pure and simple and exhilarating and delicious. And affordable.

Chef Alex Stupak

Chef Alex takes pains to claim he is not an artist.  However, he practically defines art!  He shares a passion. And his work  -- or art -- is constantly changing and evolving. 

If fine art patrons can’t stop looking at that Andy Warhol, Empellon patrons can hardly be blamed for seeing and tasting nuance in every dish.

When asked if he is recreating a cultural heritage cuisine or taking the inspiration and re-crafting the recipes, he thoughtfully stops to consider.  While Alex has done his share of solid research in Mexico, studying and inculcating the local food style – particularly in Oaxaca, there is no denying he can’t suppress his creativity. Chef says he is inspired by the impressive variety of plants and spices and the endless combinations found in Mexican cultural cuisine.

Perhaps Chef Alex is looking to put some distance between his first foray as an acclaimed pastry chef to the savory side of the restaurant.  His pedigree is impressive: Iron Chef, WD-50, Alinea’s wunderkind and master of the manipulated.

Some questioned his move away from desserts and his opening a restaurant with Mexican food.  His standard response is that he likes Mexican food.  While that may be true enough, it’s evident that his artistic DNA is boundless. 

One meal will have anyone asking, “Who cares?” 

This food is amazing! 

The food ingredients are sourced from local greenmarkets, especially Union Square. For the unique, Mexican-grown ingredients, including the variety of nearly 20 chiles he needs and the plantains that don’t grow in the local NY climate Chef Alex has developed regional relationships there in order to get the best and freshest for the restaurant. 

The large living room-sized dining room is up front and a smaller dining room in the rear.  

The lighting is low and candles set off the dark wood tables.

One wall of the main room is white-washed brick and the bar runs the length of the other side, backed by a Diego Rivera-like mural that is ablaze with red-hot chile colors.  

The spirit of the Mexican painter’s labor murals could almost be said to inspire the servers and staff when observing their steely energy and crisp focused customer attention. 

The restaurant is a family-run business.  Alex’s wife, Lauren Resler, of Babbo fame, is the pastry chef here.  Her brother, Matthew is the beverage manager and bartender. 

Matthew has curated a drink offering that is nothing short of astounding.

With nearly 25 Mezcals, Empellon has more than any other bar in New York. And with names like Ilegal and Scorpion, the agave-based drinks are an illicit-sounding yet completely legit drinking adventure, setting the explorer back a mere $8 to $26.

There are also more than 35 different Tequilas, including Blanco, Resposado, Anejo and Ultra Premium and Infused, priced from $7 to $75.

There are plenty of beers with Modelo Especial and Negro Modelo on tap, along with six other brews. Beers run $5 to $9.

Por Que No?! Coctele

The Cocteles were an explosion of flavor.  

The kick of the Por Que No? is one of the most popular with its silver/cilantro/Serrano/pineapple blend.  Wow!

The comprehensive wine list includes vintages from all the top wine producing areas.  What is intriguing and thoughtful here, as explained by the super-professional, uber-knowledgeable and gorgeous assistant manager, Rose Thompson, is that the list is arranged by attributes.

Rose Thompson, Empellon

So if the traditional European two-step of white with fish and red with meat leaves a lingering question of what to order with Mexican fare, it’s all been tied up with a bow here.  For example, Red can be Light & Fruit Driven or Rustic & Earthy or Bold & Velvety. Whites are Crisp & Bright or Rich & Full.

Rose said the restaurant chose to pair the wine by its fruit or spice rather than match it to the food by the protein.

The dinner menu can start with a rich, creamy, flavorful and chunky guacamole. 

But no tomatoes or citrus.  It is prepared with smoke cashew and arbol chile.  It comes with limes on the side and two salsas – that can go with everything. The Salsa Veracruz is roasted tomato olive and caper that is a blend of salty and smoky.  

There are plenty of appetizers to choose from. 

That’s the problem. They are all too tempting. 

Who can resist Antojitos – which means craving?!

The taco dinner comes with three per order.  The Lamb Barbacoa is cooked all day, melts in the mouth and served with Salsa Borracha and one of the most popular.  

Lamb Barbacoa with Salsa Borracha

Beer Braised Tongue with Potatoes & Arbol Chile Salsa 

The Beer Braised Tongue with potatoes and Arbol Chile Salsa is a surprise treat—smooth and best eaten with the accompanying onions- that will have people talking!  

The Fish Tempura taco with cabbage and lime mayonnaise is startling for it’s blend of flavors  - the Dogfish Tempura was served on a bed of layered radish, cilantro and sauce for a burst of flavor.

Dogfish Tempura with Cabbage & Lime Mayonaise

Seared Scallop over Peeky Toe Crab

The Seared Scallop over plantains and peeky toe crab with shredded taco- like potato sticks is a fantastic blend of textures and tastes. 

The desserts are a sweet confection and just as difficult to decide what to order. 

Recommended are the Bunuelos with Cafeta and Warm Honey and the irresistible Chocolate Flan with Masa-Cocoa Streusel and Cinnamon Ice Cream.

Bunuelos with Cafeta & Warm Honey

Chocolate Flan with Masa-Cocoa Streusel & Cinnamon Ice Cream

The flavor-packed dessert creations are on the same page as the Empellon savory menu offerings.  Zing! Without a punch.  The afterglow hits just the right note of fresh and flavorful. Chocolate is velvety, the cinnamon sparks and the streusel is served like graham cracker crumbs. 

The Bunuelos are like sparkly pillows made all the more heavenly with warm caramel sauce…

 

Celebrate Cinco de Mayo in style.  Go to Empellon for the special Prix Fixed Menu: four courses and open bar. Seatings are 6 ($70) and 8:30 pm. ($85). Chef Alex will keep the integrity of the menu for the celebration.

Return again and again for the variety and excitement of the delicious food waiting to be discovered at Chef Alex’s powerful and compelling Empellon.  Hey, no pushing! There's plenty of delicious food for everybody!

Empellon serves Lunch, Dinner, and Brunch. 

The restaurant is open 5pm to 2 am.

230 West 4^th Street at 10^th St. near 7^th Avenue South

New York, NY

212-367-0999

 Don't call him a molecular gastronomist.: An article from: Art Culinaire

Celebrity Chef David Burke Opens Kitchen and Treehouse Garden Restaurant in SoHo, NYC

Stepping off the street, through the doors of the James Hotel, down the stairs to discover David Burke’s newest restaurant, Kitchen, is not unlike going through the Looking Glass.

Patrons would be forgiven for spotting more than a few rabbits too.

And not just because the ubiquitous, mad hatter about town Easter Bunny was on display in every storefront last week.

Water-Toting Menu Rabbits at Kitchen

No, the hares that adorn the Kitchen, peeking out from the plank-backed menus to indicate its inclusion in the prix fixe meal and Drinks Menu are drawn as hard-working dairyman or farmers -- more akin to the fashionable and endearing Beatrix Potter kind.

It is an apt icon or theme for the farm to table ambition celebrity chef David is aiming for here in the sleek, barn-inspired dining room, complete with denim seats and gingham napkins.  

The decor, along with his signature whimsical and creative menu offerings makes the Kitchen a restaurant that is an exciting, fun, food adventure.  Like Peter Pa who won’t grow up, David is renowned for his Toy Story-like collection of curiosities that often take center stage with regard to the food and décor. (At the Rumson, NJ, Garden State Fromagerie restaurant, there is a Toys in the Attic room filled David’s treasures.)

David Burke’s fans – and there is an assembly of toy-loving, food followers and luminaries who enjoy the food and dining fantasy at his more than seven restaurants located across the US. 

Kitchen is his fourth in New York City, joining the award-winning Townhouse, Fishtail, and David Burke at Bloomingdales. http://www.davidburke.com/restaurant_townhouse.html

Executive Manager Teddy Suris, who is on loan from chef David’s uptown eateries, says they are thrilled to see so many of their loyal customers who’ve make the trip downtown to the loft-like Kitchen to enjoy “David ‘Unplugged’” he notes with a smile.

The most popular selection on the Kitchen’s Lunch menu is the 3-Course Prix Fixe $24.07, according to the server.  It’s easy to see why. 

There are eight Starters to choose from, no less than 13 Mains and half that bakers dozen for dessert. 

A la carte prices range from $8 to $16 for starters; $14 to $25 for Mains and $8 to $16 for dessert.   

What’s not easy is choosing what to order. 

Chef Jedd Adair finishing tuna

Chef David and Executive Chef, Jedd Adair, formerly, Tocqueville, must’ve had a blast coming up with a menu that offers the most curious mash-ups.  

Diners can’t help but read aloud and share such head-shaking items like Pretzel Crab Cake with tomato orange and green peppercorn, Lobster Soup dumplings with coconut fennel crème and red watercress or the Asparagus & Burrata prosciutto with honeydew and basil. 

Mains feature offerings that include Crispy Softshell Open Face salted mango with cucumber and carrot, Crispy Tuna with citrus salad, grilled leek and sour carrot sauce and Duck Meatball Lasagna with herb striped pasta and farm fresh egg.

Kitchen’s Pastry Chef, Daniela Arini, former pastry chef at Per Se, channels chef David’s signature Lollipop Tree dessert with passion fruit whipped cream (also good with bubble gum whipped cream!) along with her spot-on Applet Tart with crème fraiche ice cream, apple cider caramel and fennel chip or the Chocolate Caramel Fudge Cake with salted caramel and goat’s milk cajeta ice cream, that chef David recommended.

Salmon Pastrami/Pretzel/Mustard Snack

Perhaps the best-tasting composition was the Salmon Pastrami/Pretzel/Mustard.  The thinly sliced salmon is wrapped around Japanese Pokey-like sticks. Chef David says he uses these “pretzels” because they can be deep-fried and not absorb the oils.  How clever is that?  The salmon-wrapped pretzel sticks are delivered in a well of mustard oil that is a burst of salty, sweet flavors.  It’s a finger food to savor.  

All the dishes come to the table plated like a work of art – by a Salvador Dali-infused artist!  

The food is stacked to towering skyscraper heights, asparagus spears act like log bridges, and the fennel chip adorning the apple crisp looks not unlike a Dr. Seuss hat with plume.  The sour carrot sauce and black olive are dollops of a painter’s palette setting off the perfectly prepared medium-rare tuna slices.

And all the embellishments are edible art flashes – no blah, weak parsley or watercress along just for the ride.

Softshell Crab Sandwich with Crisp Lotus

Crispy Tuna with Leeks

Pretzel Crab Cake with Yolk Mayo

Chocolate Caramel Fudge Cake and Goat's Milk Cajeta Ice Cream

     

Apple Tart, Creme Fraiche Ice Cream, Apple Cider Caramel, Fennel Chip

Chef David’s signature Jars are a feature here too: Tomato with eggplant and ricotta, Ocean Cocktail with horseradish and White Bean chorizo.

Hanging from the dining room’s plank farm walls are almost life-sized portraits of David’s real-life farmer and dairy food partners – showing off their edible work in living color -- in case anyone missed the point.  There’s the chicken toting farmer and the cheese artisan, for example, amplifying the fresh from the farm mission.  If the fresh food ingredients from his purveyors don’t measure up?  “They go into the penalty box” according to David.  

The center service table boasts a curiosity that could belong to a mad scientist. Turns out, David repurposed what once was a gold duck press to suck the prawn heads off the crustaceans.  Take that for tableside service.  

(Spoiler alert: the service table is also where the surprise doggie bags are prepared for those who don’t finish everything on their plate.)

Likewise an old fashioned phone booth where Superman might’ve, ahem, changed into his flying tights, is now home to a bouquet of fresh flowers where cell phone users can chat it up in glamorous privacy. 

Cell Phone Booth

Call for that Reservation at Kitchen, please!

Open not more than three months; Kitchen is more ready than most new restaurants. Many of the professional wait and kitchen staff are borrowed from David’s uptown empire until the Kitchen and the Treehouse are full staffed and trained in the Burke Group’s ways of hospitality and courtesy.  According to Ted, a new restaurant is a lot like a new car – “You have to drive it ten to 20 times to get the feel of it.”

Kitchen is clearly on the road to driving its own NYC success!! (Couldn't resist.)

The partnership with the luxury boutique James Hotel is an extension of the Chicago venture where David owns and runs the farm to table, seasonal food franchise.

Scheduled to open the last week of April, beginning of May, The Treehouse restaurant is an elevator ride up to a glass-enclosed bar area that leads to a series of undulating bars, chef table, dining and garden rooms, tucked around here and upstairs there, all perched on the corner of the James hotel that sits on the corner of Sixth Avenue.  

But all eyes look up to the unencumbered sky.  Ahhh, a slice of light-filled heaven that will soon be filled with fabulous downtown fashion cohorts tinkling glasses; laughing at the stars – the kind in the night sky, that is. 

The Drinks Menu at Kitchen and Treehouse is a well-curated offering that features a delightful mix of moderate to aspirational wine and champagne, including Burkehouse signature vintage and crisp, tasty local North Fork wines from the Channing Daughters’ Long Island vineyard.

There is also a frothy selection of local beers – many on tap -- to cool a summer day spent in the Treehouse garden: NY’s South Hampton “Double White, Brooklyn’s Sis Points “Crisp Pils,” Fire Island’s “Red Wagon IPA,” or Long Island’s Green Harbor “Duck Porter.” 

The Cocktails are nothing short of garden-inspired libations winking a come-hither dare to try them all. It’s a party after all!  Brandishing monikers like “Good ‘N Plenty,” “Jackalope, 23 Grand Street, Rabbit Hunter and BTC, squeals of wonder will be heard up and down SoHo.

Chef David has some interesting plans for the Treehouse.  “We are looking into doing a small farmers market on Saturday morning until around 10 am,” he says.  Seeming to peer into his food-filled crystal ball, David day-dreamily orchestrates the scene: “We could put together a coffee, toast, brioche and jam breakfast basket to enjoy while picking up things from the market.” 

The Burke Group's Teddy Suric (L) and Connor Burke ready for Treehouse Guests

Overall, the Treehouse menu will be small, cool food items such as lobster rolls, seven to eight different non-alcohol iced teas flavored with garden fresh herbs, such as lavender.  The dream also previews Gotham-styled sunbathers sipping cool drinks on the garden terrace and under the private cabanas – perfect for canoodling.  David’s way-cool son, Connor, will be the onsite, able manager of the rooftop garden oasis.  

The Treehouse is destined to become THE watering hole of the season: it’s sophisticated, sexy urban garden design, located in the heart of the uber-cool, SoHo neighborhood offers a perfect meeting place for a special-someone rendezvous or daily cocktail time with friends.

Cabanas and sexy, lacy chairs

Glamorous Chef's Table at Treehouse rooftop Garden

Fashion-forward lamps to accessorize those sexy chairs

Both the Treehouse and restaurant are the answer to any event planner.      

The spaces are unique. The food is catered by David Burke Events and will be unforgettable and buzz-worthy.  

Recently, David described a party they did at the Armory, for example, where women dressed like sultry cigarette girls, walked the party like a cloud – serving up cones of fresh made pretty in pink cotton candy.  Other teams of waiters wore cheesehead hats filled with cheese popsicles.  “It was hilarious,” adds David. 

He puts the amuse in amuse-bouche!

Never one to take it all so seriously, chef David’s classic culinary training is the stepping-stone – taking a traditional dish and twisting it with an element of surprise.  

Kitchen’s menu will change every week with daily, seasonal items offered daily for the dinner menu. 

Not that a diner could ever get bored with a David Burke merry go round of food creations.

The restaurants are open for three meals a day, brunch and snacks. Located in SoHo, in the James Hotel at 23 Grand Street, NYC 10013.  Telephone: 212-201-9119.  www.davidburkekitchen.com

David's classic cookbook:

Master Chef David Burke at Kitchen Restaurant

Me/Reviewer and Fan, with culinary wizard, Chef David

Bosie Tea Parlor Opens in Greenwich Village, NYC Serving Panoply of Tea Treats & Experiences!

Where else but a tea parlor like Bosie’s can so much fun, history, and flavor be found?

Tea is the world’s most popular drink next to water.  The culture of tea embraces a diversity of history and places: from Buddhist monks to English High Tea, to Indian tea gardens to Chinese scholars, the revered Japanese tea ceremony to the Mad Hatter and the Boston Tea Party to today’s you-know-who, tea has greatly influenced the world. 

So it isn’t surprising that Greenwich Village – home to a diversity of styles and culture, boasts a new tea experience. 

What is surprising is how little most New Yorkers know about tea.

Bosie Tea Parlor – scheduled to officially open the week of April 11^th is sure to bewitch soon-to-be tea enthusiasts with its tea cuisine and ambience.

Located just off Bleeker on Morton, a quiet side street is Bosie. 

Furnished in dark wood walls and tables, the copper tea canisters sparkle behind the bar counter like an upscale apothecary, and the glass jewel-like case is adorned with macarons and tea cakes. 

The culinary tea awaking is the brainchild of partners Nicky Dawda and tea sprite Kiley Holliday. 

Before taking in the cozy yet smart restaurant, Kiley’s engaging and welcoming tea lore has customers swooning with curiosity and delight. There are more than 80 different teas available for tasting and pandering one’s tea-time palate. 

Bosie’s confections are made by Damien Herrgott, who hails from Ladurée in Paris and Bouley Bakery, NYC http://www.davidbouley.com/

Chris Silversen, former chef at 21 Club and now Maritime Park  http://maritimeparc.com/

creates the savory menu. Nick and Kiley worked with Chris, supplying tea for his operations from their wholesale tea business.  He agreed to help out with their Bosie restaurant venture, cooking up the tantalizing tea sandwiches, quiche, salads, and soups and panini.

Tea Master Kiley is an energetic, fascinating mélange of history, culture and new-age health advocate, who met her future business partner, Nicky, when she was his personal yoga instructor.

No stranger to restaurants and culinary art, Nicky owns two Noodle Bar restaurants http://www.noodlebarnyc.com/

in New York City located on the Lower East Side that he opened after a successful career in finance.

A Los Angeles transplant, Kiley moved to New York to study history at NYU.  Pulling more than a few late-nighters for exams, she soon switched from imbibing the jitter-inducing coffee to the sublime world of tea. 

She never looked back. 

A whole new world of history and taste was upon her.  

Nicky and Kiley collaborated on a successful tea wholesale and online business -- after he proposed the two delve into a crash course in tea history and cultivating grower resources.  It was off to India, China and Japan.

Today, Kiley is the brainy goddess of tea.  She has the bona fides.  She knows her top shelf organic teas from the green and black and Darjeelings, and can recite the optimal brewing times for any of the teas: estate, or her own custom, signature brews.

Think fairy tale flavor combos like almond cookie rooibos, gingerbread, coconut and strawberry green.

To watch her whisk a green matcha tea with almond milk is not unlike seeing a sorcerer whip a bit of magical alchemy. Performance art! 

She also offers a coquettish grin when asked how the name Bosie came about.  “Bosie was Oscar Wilde’s main lover.”  There is a bit of intriguing lore about that that appeals to her love of history and literature and art.  “Wilde is my favorite writer and the name reminds me that some things are overtly good for you -- and tawdry and decadent at the same time,” she adds with a bit of a wink.  

According to Nicky, tea is a luxury, and an affordable one.  “For not more than $10, guests can enjoy splurging on a treat without breaking the bank.” The partners agreed there is a huge opportunity for cultivating a tea culture clientele in New York. 

Already, the duo has supplied custom tea exclusives for the likes of In Style magazine and fashion clients. Boise will also offer customized gift packages at the restaurant. 

Take home teas are hand-filled into elegant small black tins with red cover art and hand written labels.  Very glamorous.  

Customers will discover they can splurge on high tea, giddy while pairing the variety of brews with six triangle sandwiches, two different tea cakes and two scones with clotted cream. 

Nearly 80 varieties of L’Age de Thé http://www.lagedethe.com/

from estate teas to Kiley’s custom signature blends prevail.  

Prices for a pot of tea rang from $6 to a little more than double that depending on the selection of tea.  The high-end matcha Kiley coyly named “Beverly Hills” tea costs upwards of $100 for 1.5 oz!  Pastries run from $2 to $19.

Bosie’s Sweet Menu tempts with a selection of 20 flavors of melt-in-your-mouth macarons including vanilla, pistachio, chai and caramel, pb&j, tea cakes (the match with passion fruit is especially fabulous), cookies, Madeleine’s, financiers, and French pastries.  

Bosie will serve breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Bosie Tea Parlor

10 Morton Street – off Bleeker Street

212-352-9900

www.bosienyc.com

See Examiner.com article: http://tiny.cc/3minm