Here below is the text of a wonderful book review for The
Hamptons & Long Island Homegrown Cookbook from the East
End’s premiere newspaper, Dan’s Hamptons.
I am so grateful for Ms. Dermont’s detailed review, suggestions and
support.
And couldn’t agree more that the book is “sure to be the go-to gift of the
season. No doubt it will appear beneath Christmas trees and Chanukah
bushes across the Island.”
Further, Dermont says, “Fingers crossed, sooner rather than later, there
will be a bigger and better “Volume II.”
I second that!
And
I knew the book worked its magic when I read this in Dermont’s review: “I
really enjoyed reading about many of the chefs’ backgrounds. I love their food
and now I better know where it comes from. This book also introduced me to some
chefs and restaurants I think I’d like to try…”
Enjoy
the review. Enjoy the book’s Homegrown recipes.
The
Hamptons & Long Island Homegrown Cookbook is the perfect hostess Holiday
gift:
I am giving thanks this holiday for the inspired chefs and growers who
grace the book. And our plates…
And I Love beach plum jelly too.
The Only Hamptons Resource You Need
A “Local”
Cookbook
NOVEMBER 17, 2012 By Stacy Dermont
The Hamptons & Long Island Homegrown Cookbook,
Local Food, Local Restaurants, Local Recipes by Leeann
Lavin with photography by Lindsay Morris and Jennifer Calais
Smith is sure to be the go-to gift of the season. No doubt it will appear
beneath Christmas trees and Chanukah bushes across the Island.
Voyageur Press is putting out a series of these
tomes honoring unique food cultures. Other editions include Boston and Chicago.
This book profiles 27 Long Island chefs, farmers and producers and
its author has held a number of tastings, dinners and book signings across the Island.
This included a recent dinner at 18 Bay on Shelter Island
with chefs Adam Kopels and Elizabeth Ronzetti. The two chefs
are featured in the book, providing a glimpse into this 16-seat gourmet
restaurant that most of the public might not otherwise experience.
Some of the other area chefs featured in the book are Lia Fallon of Amarelle
in Wading River, Starr Boggs, Keith Luce of Luce + Hawkins, Joe
Isidori at Southfork Kitchen and Gerry Hayden and Claudia Fleming of The North
Fork Table & Inn. Also featured are some of the many farmers and
producers who bring forth delicious food from Long Island’s soil and waters.
The book profiles Noank Aquaculture Co-op in Southold, Balsam Farms
in Amagansett, Crescent Duck Farm and Paumanok Vineyards in Aquebogue,
The Hayground School, Open Minded Organics and Mecox Bay Dairy, all in
Bridgehampton and Quail Hill Farm in Amagansett.
The photos of food and scenes are naturally gorgeous, but the portraits
leave something to be desired. I know that most of these people are
considerably better-looking than they appear in this volume because I see them
every week. More troubling, though, is that on the pages featuring portraits of
chefs alongside those of farmers and baymen, the chefs’ names are listed
but not the producers’. In case you’re wondering, the super cute farmer from Balsam
Farms is named Ian Calder-Piedmonte and the Sylvester Manor
farmer pictured is Creek Iverson, not Bennett Konesni, as you
might gather from the text.
Overall I think that Lavin has done a good job highlighting some of
Long Island’s best local restaurants and producers. Of course, in a burgeoning
foodie culture like ours, you can’t include everyone. As Chef Tom
Schaudel says, “It’s like Disneyland for food out here.”
Fingers crossed, sooner rather than later, there will be a bigger and
better “Volume II.”
Missing, naturally, are some big players who just came to the table,
including Tom Colicchio’s Topping Rose House in Bridgehampton and the All
Star in Riverhead, which features a menu designed by Keith Luce.
Both of these eateries opened a couple of months ago.
But there’s many a fascinating story told in this book and I suggest that
you go right ahead and buy a copy for every foodie on your gift list. Locals
will love it. As will native Long Islanders who now live “away.” People
who sometimes visit our shores will also “eat it up.”
Lavin got quite a bit right (if you can forgive a reference to a
“potato pasture”), like featuring the grand dame of local foodie culture, Anna
Pump, the founder of Sagaponack’s Loaves & Fishes. I can’t wait to
try her recipe for Lobster Potato Salad! I’m also jazzed to try making Keith
Luce’s Apple Rosemary Fritters and Gretchen Menser’s Apple Gremolata. Yum!
I really enjoyed reading about many of the chefs’ backgrounds. I love their
food and now I better know where it comes from. This book also introduced me to
some chefs and restaurants I think I’d like to try, including The Grey Horse
Tavern in Bayshore and Kitchen A Bistro in St. James.
Warning: Reading this book will make you hungry. I had to break for a PB&J
midway through. (Yes, the jelly was local—beach plum!)
Bon Appetit!
‘The Hamptons & Long Island Homegrown Cookbook,
Local Foods, Local Restaurants, Local Recipes’ by Leeann Lavin (Voyageur Press,
2012) $30, available locally and online.
Link to the full story with graphics:
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